Ectoine: Powerhouse Ingredient Every Formulator Need
WHAT IS ECTOINE?
Ectoine is an amino acid and a natural compound found within and derived from several species of bacteria.
It is an organic osmolyte known as an extremolyte, extracted from extremophilic microorganisms. As their name suggests, extremolytes have evolved to survive and help protect cellular integrity in extreme salinity, heat, cold and drought.
Osmolytes are low molecular weight organic compounds that accumulate water inside cells or tissues to protect them in response to dehydration under environmental stress.
That the extremolyte ectoine has the ability to influence the properties of cell fluids is the reason why it is the subject of increasing cosmetic science research.
Ectoine’s primary role is to maintain the integrity of a cell’s structure by affecting the viscosity, melting point, and ionic strength (in other words, the pH) of the cell’s aqueous solution.
It can accumulate at high concentrations to protect, but not interfere with, biological cell structures.
WHY IS IT OF INTEREST IN COSMETICS?
In simpler terms, and of interest to the cosmetic scientist, is ectoine’s ability to act as a cell protector and stabiliser, and its role in boosting cellular hydration and guarding against UV irradiation.
In fact, the list of roles this microorganism plays is very long and ranges from strengthening the skin’s barrier to helping reduce trans-epidermal
water loss (TEWL) and from offering super moisturisation properties to mitigating the effects of photoageing.
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Ectoine has also drawn the attention of cosmetics brands looking at microbiome-compatible formulations. Thanks to its list of protective attributes,
which have been shown to transfer to its use in cosmetics, it appears to be the ultimate, skin-friendly active ingredient.
Ectoine has shown to have outstanding properties to protect the skin barrier when compromised by the use of harsh surfactants, extremes of cold or heat, the ageing process or UV exposure.
In vivo research has shown ectoine to have strong water-binding capabilities and greater efficacy at maintaining skin hydration than glycerol-based humectants.
Interestingly too, ectoine demonstrates long-term moisturisation capabilities. It is also being investigated for its capacity to alleviate
atopic dermatitis although as cosmetic formulators, this is not a claim we can make for our formulations.
HOW DO I USE IT IN NATURAL FORMULATIONS?
As a cosmetic ingredient, ectoine (INCI: Ectoin) in its purest form comes as a fine, white, dry powdered amino acid derivative.
It is also included in compound ingredients, and in aqueous formats too, in order to aid its inclusion in a wide variety of cosmetic formulations.
Ectoine is used as an active ingredient and cosmeceutical in just about every category of water-based cosmetic formulation – creams, lotions
and gels – and for products ranging from those aimed at mature and/or dry and sensitive skin to hair care and colour cosmetics.
There is every reason to take a look at using ectoine in any high-performance natural formulation you are devising.
Given its amazing properties, it is astounding that ectoine is only now becoming star of the show in cosmetic products.
We suggest researching ectoine further, using our references below as a starting point, to further your knowledge on ectoine as a versatile and efficacious active ingredient.
Use: Can be used in all skin care regimens. Helps to build a protective barrier to the skin, nourish the skin, rejuvenate the skin
Mixing method: dissolved in water (water-phase), which can withstand heat up to 80 degrees
Usage rate: 0.5-5.0% (recommended 2.0%)
Product characteristics: white powder
Solubility: can dissolve in water
Storage: can be stored at room temperature Close the bottle cap tightly. and completely sealed from sunlight or heat, the product is at least 3 years old (actual shelf life from the test is 5 years, but the manufacturer guarantees 3 years of quality)
INCI Name : Ectoin
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