Poloxamer 407
All Functions: emulsifying, surfactant
Description: oxirane, methyl-, polymer with oxirane (98;67)
CAS #: 9003-11-6
A synthetic big copolymer molecule that is used mainly as a solubilizer (make small amounts of oil-loving things soluble in water-based formulas) and gelling agent.
In general, poloxamers are interesting big molecules composed of three blocks:
the middle block is an oil-loving part (from propylene oxide units, if you're into chemistry), while the left and right blocks are two water-loving parts (from ethylene oxide units).
This means that poloxamers are partly water and partly oil soluble and thus they are surface active agents acting as emulsifiers and/or cleansers.
The size of both the oil and water-soluble part can vary, and the numbers in the name of the molecule refer to both the overall size of the whole molecule and to the ratio of the water-soluble part.
Polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene block polymers are referred to as poloxamers.
Several Poloxamers are known by the trade name PluronicR followed by a letter and number, either L, F, or P, which refers to liquid, flake, or paste physical forms, respectively.
Poloxamer 407 is a polyoxyethylene polymer and a hydrophilic non-ionic surfactant.
It is made up of two blocks of hydrophilic polyethylene glycol on either side of a central hydrophobic polypropylene glycol block.
In cosmetic and personal products, poloxamer 407 is used as an emulsifier and solubilizer.
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What is POLOXAMER 407 used for?
Majority of the uses for poloxamer 407 are associated with its surfactant abilities. It is frequently used in cosmetics, for instance, to dissolve oily ingredients in water.
- Skin care: By lowering the surface tension of the ingredients to be emulsified and assisting other ingredients in dissolving in a solvent that they would not typically dissolve in, poloxamers aid in the formation of emulsions. Poloxamer 407 cleans the skin by facilitating the rinsing of oil and dirt with water
- Hair care: It serves the same purpose of cleansing the scalp and removing any kind of dirt or oil in the hair
- Oral care: It is used in mouthwashes
Origin
Poloxamers are typically formed under conditions of high pressure and temperature. An alkaline catalyst, like sodium or potassium hydroxide, is used to combine propylene oxide and ethylene oxide with propylene glycol. The neutral salt is neutralized, and the catalyst is no longer active.
What does POLOXAMER 407 do in a formulation?
- Emulsifying
- Surfactant
Safety profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel expressed concern regarding the possible presence of 1,4-dioxane, ethylene oxide, and propylene oxide as impurities. Ethylene oxide is highly volatile and a known human carcinogen. They stressed that the cosmetic industry should continue to use the necessary purification procedures to keep the levels below the established limits. The panel concluded that Poloxamer 407 is safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the practices of use and concentration.
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