If you have pigmentation issues, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is something to look at. It is an amino acid (Phenylalanine) derived molecule that is thought to hinder the pigmentation process in a unique way by being a so-called MSH-antagonist. 

MSH stands for Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone, and as you have probably guessed by its name, it is important in the process of melanogenesis, i.e. the generation of melanin pigments. MSH binds to a receptor on the melanocyte (the skin cell that creates melanin) called Melanocortin 1 Receptor (MC1R), which kicks off a bunch of biological processes that result in the formation of pigment. Our guy, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine can hinder this binding and thus the whole melanin creation process afterward.  

INCI Name: Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

Product Name:Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
Other Name:Sepiwhite
CAS NO.:175357-18-3
M.W.:331.45
M.F.:C20H29NO3
Specification:98%
Synonyms:N-(1-Oxo-10-undecen-1-yl)-L-phenylalanine
Appearance:White powder
Property and Flavor:Soluble in ether

The efficacy of the molecule is definitely promising. The manufacturer did several in-vitro (in test tubes) and in-vivo (on people) tests and found Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine to be more effective than a bunch of well-known skin-lightening molecules, such as arbutin, kojic acid or MAP (the vitamin C derivative). 

We also found two research studies that show that 2% Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is effective both in the treatment of age spots (or sunspots, the pigmentation that comes with UV and age) and melasma (that comes at a younger age and is usually influenced by hormones). A third study done by Procter&Gamble examined our amino-derivative, combined with Niacinamide and found that the combination of 1% Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine with 5% Niacinamide is more effective than niacinamide alone. 

undecylenoyl phenylalanine is a derivative of phenylalanine, key amino acid of the melanogenesis process. this unique molecule has been vectorized to block the melanin formation process. it combats the appearance of hyperpigmentation to reveal a brighter and more even skin tone. it’s thought to achieve this by suppressing activity of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-msh) and beta-adrenergic receptor (β-adr).¹ synergies may be achieved with ahas and niacinamide to speed skin lightening effects and typical results are evident in 1-6 weeks.

Production process of Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is produced through esterification between undecylenic acid, an unsaturated fatty acid derived from vegetable oils, and the amino acid phenylalanine, an essential amino acid in the body's protein synthesis. The result is a stable compound that is non-irritating to the skin and has many uses in skincare.

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Uses and benefits of Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine in skincare

Brightens skin

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine lightens the skin by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, an important enzyme in the synthesis of melanin - the substance that causes skin pigmentation. When melanin is produced less, the skin becomes brighter, while uneven pigment spots are minimized. The benefit of using Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine to lighten the skin is that it helps the skin become brighter, younger and more evenly colored.

Reduce dark spots and brown spots

Dark spots and brown spots often appear due to increased melanin production in specific areas of the skin. Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine helps reduce dark spots and brown spots by controlling melanin production, helping to reduce pigmentation spots on the skin. The benefit of using Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine in reducing dark spots and brown spots is that it helps the skin become more even, brighter and healthier.

Treat and prevent acne

Although Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is not a strong anti-bacterial or anti-inflammatory agent, it still has the ability to help treat and prevent acne thanks to its ability to cleanse the skin and control oil. By reducing excess oil on the skin, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine helps prevent clogged pores - one of the main causes of acne. The benefit of using Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine to treat and prevent acne is that it helps reduce the likelihood of acne appearing and helps the skin become cleaner and healthier.

How to use Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine in skincare products

This product contains Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine can be found in many types of skincare products such as lotions, serums, toners, or masks. For maximum effectiveness, look for products that contain Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine in combination with other ingredients with similar or complementary uses.

Instructions for use of products containing Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

To use products containing Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine safely and effectively, follow these steps:

1. Wash your face with a facial cleanser suitable for your skin type.

2. Use toner to balance pH and provide moisture to the skin.

3. Apply serum or cream containing Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine to the entire face, avoiding the eye and mouth areas. Gently massage until the product is completely absorbed into the skin.

4. 4. Wait about 5-10 minutes for the product to penetrate deeply into the skin before using sunscreen or night cream.

1. Use products containing Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine daily or as directed by the manufacturer for best results.

Frequency of use and storage conditions: Use products containing Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine according to the manufacturer's instructions, usually every day or every week depending on skin sensitivity and product type. Store the product at room temperature, away from direct sunlight and high humidity.

Notes when using Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

• Before using a product containing Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, test the product on a small area of skin on the wrist or behind the ear to check skin reaction. If there are no signs of irritation after 24 hours, you can use the product on your face.

• Avoid using products containing Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine at the same time as products containing highly irritating ingredients, such as retinol, AHA or BHA, unless directed by a dermatologist.

• Side effects: Although rare, some people may experience skin irritation, redness, itching, or peeling when using products containing Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine. If you experience these side effects, stop using the product and consult a dermatologist.

Conclude

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is a versatile and effective ingredient in skincare, helping to brighten skin, reduce dark spots, brown spots, and support acne treatment. To achieve best results, choose a product containing Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine that is suitable for your skin and use it properly according to the manufacturer's instructions. Besides, don't forget to combine it with a comprehensive skin care regimen, including daily use of sunscreen, maintaining a healthy diet, staying healthy and mentally relaxed.