INTRODUCING ECTOINE

Ectoine helps protect the cellular functioning of microorganisms living in extreme environments such as those of deserts, salt lakes, ice flows and hot sulfurous springs. 

If ectoine gives rise to this level of cellular protection in nature, then it might have similar fascinating properties when harnessed in cosmetics, thought scientist researching cosmetic ingredients.

First discovered in 1985 and isolated from bacteria found in salt lakes in an Egyptian desert, ectoine is surprisingly only now finding its way into mainstream cosmetics, and being talked about in the beauty media.

WHAT IS ECTOINE?

Ectoine is an amino acid and a natural compound found within and derived from several species of bacteria. 

It is an organic osmolyte known as an extremolyte, extracted from extremophilic microorganisms. 

As their name suggests, extremolytes have evolved to survive and help protect cellular integrity in extreme salinity, heat, cold and drought.

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Osmolytes are low molecular weight organic compounds that accumulate water inside cells or tissues to protect them in response to dehydration under environmental stress.

 That the extremolyte ectoine has the ability to influence the properties of cell fluids is the reason why it is the subject of increasing cosmetic science research.

Ectoine’s primary role is to maintain the integrity of a cell’s structure by affecting the viscosity, melting point, and ionic strength (in other words, the pH) of the cell’s aqueous solution. 

It can accumulate at high concentrations to protect, but not interfere with, biological cell structures.

It has strong hydrating abilities

However, of all the good characteristics discovered so far and the possible application of ectoine, its role in protecting and preserving the normal function of the skin certainly is among the best. Since the discovery of ectoine and the recognition of its ability to bind water, it has been used as an ingredient in moisturizing products. It is safe to say that ectoine gained this role with full right, taking into account in vivo studies that have shown lesser transepidermal water loss upon application. Also, by comparing the stability of ectoine complexes and water molecules in relation to water and glycerol complexes and water molecules and macromolecules, it was proven that ectoine has a better and longer lasting moisturizing effect, thus deserves to be the star of the humectant group of ingredients.

Restores and strengthens the skin

One of the possibly strongest features of ectoine is its ability to protect cells from damage by various surfactants present in cleansers, but also to help restore the barrier function of severely damaged skin. Therefore, it is not surprising that ectoine could be one of the more effective solutions in the fight against atopic dermatitis. Namely, in one randomized and double-blind study, conducted in several different clinical centers, the exceptional benefit of using ectoine in atopic dermatitis was proven. Thanks to its humectant and anti-inflammatory properties, ectoine has shown results comparable to the results of conventional forms of therapy in moderate to severe atopic dermatitis by restoring the skin barrier and relieving symptoms.

Protects against damage caused by UVA radiation

It was mentioned earlier that ectoine serves the bacteria that produce it, among other things, to protect against radiation. In human cells, in vitro research has shown that ectoine protects against various harmful effects caused by UVA radiation, responsible for damage to the deeper layers of the skin and aging.

At the molecular level, viewed from the perspective of immune components, ectoine affects overexpression of the ICAM-1 gene. ICAM-1 are glycosylated proteins called "intercellular adhesion molecules" and are constantly present in low concentrations on the surface of endothelial cells and immune system cells. In the inflammatory process, simply put, their concentration is increased and is responsible for the interaction of cells that will initiate an inflammatory reaction by bringing the cells of the immune system to the place of inflammation. Frequent inflammatory processes can lead to a permanent change in damaged tissues, which can be prevented by application of ectoine. Also, due to the protective effect on the cells, they were less susceptible to that visible, physical damage. Certain results also indicate how ectoine can reduce the probability of mutations caused by UVA radiation, which causes wrinkles and impairs skin texture. Of course, it is clear that skin cancer also occurs at the gene level, so it is possible that ectoine could play a bigger role than this in its prevention.

With its multifunctionality, ectoine certainly justifies its presence in functional preparative cosmetics products, and it is obvious that its potentials are very likely not fully exploited. The most prominent benefits of ectoine application are visible in the reduction of skin damage by UVA radiation, the restoration of impaired skin function and soothing of the symptoms of atopic dermatitis.

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